new zealand by camper van: part two

Our New Zealand adventure continued as we travelled up the west coast.  The drive from Wanaka to Nelson, where we were spending New Year's Eve, is long and twisty.  The roads wind over mountain passes and through sheep pastures.  It's gorgeous, but so, so long.  To split up the drive, we made a few pit stops a long the way.  

First up, the Fox Glacier.  Touring companies will gladly take your money to give you an up close experience, but you can also make the short 30 minute hike to a pretty good view point.  It's steep, but worth the walk.  The glacier is large, blue, and very close to the trail.  

Fox Glacier

Just 40 minutes up the road lies the Franz Glacier.  Another 30 minute hike will get you to a meh view.  If you have to choose, go with Fox.  However, the ridiculous ranger cut out was good for a laugh.

Our new best friend

After a day and a half of driving, we finally made it to Abel Tasman sound.  The plan was to kayak, but pouring rain forced us to make a few change ups.  We rescheduled the kayak trip, and hit the trails for some rainy hiking.  The lush forest, and the steamy humidity made it feel like we were hiking in the depths of the Amazon.  

Post hike, Ryan and I made the hour long drive to Nelson, where we were staying for the next two nights...in a hotel!  I was beyond excited to sleep in a proper bed and take a proper shower.  Hotels in New Zealand are ludicrously expensive, but after a bit of research, I was able to find The Sails.  Affordable, clean, cute, cozy, and centrally located.  

Nelson, we discovered, is known for the microbrew scene.  We were given a few recommendations from the owner of the Sails, then hit the scene.  Our first stop was the Free House.  It's an old church that is living a new life as a bar.  With a dozen local beers on tap, tons of out door seating, and a small snack menu for munching, we were quite pleased with our first selection.  The best part, immediately adjacent is a yurt with live music.  As long as you buy a drink at the bar, chilling in the yurt and listening to the band are free.  We caught My Chameleon.  

My Chameleon

Next stop, dinner at Hopgood's.  Holy cow, my palate died and went to heaven.  Delicious New Zealand beers and wines, paired with fresh local ingredients and a friendly atmosphere.  It's a Nelson must do.  

Day two, New Year's Eve, in the northern region of the southern island, found us kayaking in the Abel Tasman sound.  The water is an unbelievable turquoise, and the waves are minimal.  While hugging the coast in the kayak, we were able to explore crazy rock formations, caves, and hard to reach beaches.  There are several kayak rental companies in the area.  Although Abel Tasman Kayaks, may seem like the way to go, given their name, they are actually the most expensive option.  We used Kahu Kayaks.  They had several different rental options, were friendly, and accommodating.  They were also the most affordable.  

We opted for some freedom kayaking (solo, no guide).  We also chose to kayak roundtrip, rather than kayak out and hike back, which most people did.  When booking, it's important to note that prices are per person.  Activities go from sounding relatively reasonably priced, to expensive.  Day rental was $60 per person, which means they are making money hand over fist.  All in all, it was a pretty amazing way to wrap up 2013.

The most exciting part about being in New Zealand for holiday was being able to ring in 2014 before the rest of the world.  We greeted the new year 21 hours before our friends and family on the US west coast.  Ryan and I continued our tour of the Nelson beer scene on NYE, visiting two more bars: The Vic and The Sprig & Fern.  Both were fun and worth a visit.  The Vic boasted fairly decent bar food paired with craft beers, and the Sprig & Fern offered free live music.  

My favorite part was the disorganization.  There's no ball to drop, that doesn't happen for another 18 hours.  The band held the power, and didn't start the countdown until 12:02, at which point there was a lack luster celebration and then Auld Lang Syne about 10 minutes too late.  It was amazing.  

NYE at the Sprig&Fern

Thunderstorms on New Year's day caused us to cancel our snorkeling with seals trip in Kaikoura.  This would be our biggest regret.  As it turned out, Kaikoura was the only place in New Zealand that was experiencing a gloriously sunny day.  We still made the trip, but then found we were shuffling about, feeling sad about no snorkel boat, and bumming about wasting our last day of honeymoon.  We tried to salvage the pieces by hiking around the peninsula.  It is beautiful, but it was no seal snorkel adventure.  This just means we have a reason to return.

The mountains shield Kaikoura from ever present rain showers

We were unintentionally dressing the same by the end of the trip.  Married!

Not wanting the fun to end, we squeezed in one last bike adventure in Christchurch just hours before our flight on the second.  We used City Cycle Hire, they brought the bikes to us while we had breakfast at the Pedal Pusher Cafe.  We planned on going to The Addington Coffee Co-Op, but, like most places, it was closed from December 24th-January 5th for holiday.

I knew that the city had been devastated after the 2011 earthquake, the third most expensive natural disaster in history, but your mind really can't comprehend such devastation until witnessing first hand.  The downtown area is a ghost town.  All the buildings are boarded up and in some phase of demolition or restoration.  The community has begun adding color to the area through whimsical parklets, murals, and fencing.  

The living wall and colorful fence surrounding the ruins of the Christchurch Cathedral

Sound garden created from post earthquake debris 

The Cardboard Cathedral, partially constructed from cardboard,
is the temporary cathedral substitute 

After our brief bike tour, it was time to say goodbye to New Zealand.  

The bottom line:  I'm moving to the South Island.  

Know before you go:

The West Coast:

• If you want to take a dip in the Tasman Sea, make sure to hit up an actual beach.  The waves break close to shore and isn't hospitable at just any pull off.  Also, the sandflies are heinous, so make it a quick dip.
• Skip the expensive glacial tours and do a self-guided 30 minute hike.  Fox is more impressive than Franz.

Abel Tasman National Park:

• Use Kahu Kayaks, the more affordable competitor to Abel Tasman Kayaks.
• Abel Tasman is home to the Coastal hut-to-hut track.  Although we did not partake, it looked amazing.  Book ahead.  

Nelson:

• Visit Nelson for their fresh seafood and microbrew scene.  

Kaikoura:

• Because of the mountain rain shadow, Kaikoura is the sunniest spot on the South Island.  
• Visit the i-Site to learn about the many outdoor activities available.  This is the best place to snorkel and whale watch.

Christchurch:

• The tourism scene was pretty much obliterated after the earthquake.  With fewer hotels, restaurants, and attractions, there just isn't as much here for a traveler.  That said, it is still worth a visit.

New Zealand:

• Every town, big or small, has an i-Site.  They often offer deals on activities, and will assist with all bookings.  It's a good place to start.  
• Many businesses close down between Christmas and New Year's.  Be warned.
• Kiwis call hiking trails, tracks.

Want to see the rest of our trip?  Check out part one.

new zealand by camper van: part one

Over my winter holiday vacation, Ryan and I travelled to New Zealand for our honeymoon.  Our trip began a bit rocky.  After a 7 hour delay, missing our connecting flight, paying $850 for a new connecting flight, missing that connecting flight, then paying $400 for my already overpriced Mollie Stone's apple at customs, we arrived.  Phew.  

Upon the recommendation of several friends, we rented a camper van to tour the South Island.  After shopping around, we landed on Cruzy Campers.  They had the best reviews, and were the most affordable.  This was definitely the right choice.  Having the camper van allowed us the freedom to see the country on our time frame, not to mention it was transportation and lodging all rolled into one.  

Our first stop was Te Anau, where we dropped off the camper van and headed out on the Milford Track for a four day backpacking trip.  New Zealand is the master of overnight hiking trips.  Each track offers huts along the way, which allow you to backpack without tents.  Plus, it was a fun way to meet people from all over the world.  Booking ahead, especially for more popular tracks, like the Milford, is necessary.  When we booked in July, there were only two remaining spaces for the entire time we were in New Zealand.  

The track begins with a boat ride on Lake Te Anau

Is it possible to visit New Zealand without pretending to be Gandalf? 

The sun sets at 10pm in NZ.  The days last forever.  Wheee!

The track ends at the Milford Sound

If we were to do the trip again, we would have hung out in Milford for a bit; kayaking on the sound and treating ourselves to a night in the Milford Lodge.  Apparently trying to book a month in advance is too little too late for the Milford Lodge during holiday season.  Instead, we took a bus back to our camper van, and headed to Dunedin.

Dunedin, although cute, was a total bust.  We arrived on Christmas evening and had the 26th to bum around town.  So, in New Zealand they celebrate Boxing Day.  Everything is closed.  And by everything, I mean EVERYTHING.  Also, it was pouring rain the entire time we were there.  

If you do find yourself in Dunedin, the downtown area has a cute train station.  There is also a botanical garden, which is free to the public.  The grounds are extensive and the smells are amazing.  Stay at the Leith Valley Holiday Park.  It's clean, friendly, and has a crazy display of glowworms just a five minute walk away.  Unfortunately, I can't speak to the bars or restaurants, because as I mentioned everything was closed.

Rain in the Botanical Garden

Dunedin Train Station

After a wasted day in Dunedin, Ryan and I headed on to Wanaka.  Fellow travelers claim Wanaka is a smaller, tamer, and better Queenstown.  It's right on a lake and surrounded by mountains.  Skiing in the winter, and endless outdoorsy activities in the summer.  We hopped out of the van, and immediately started kayaking.  

Kayaking on Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka sunset

Wine, dinner, and sunset viewing, all from the camper van

Our second day in Wanaka found us driving up to Mt. Aspiring National Park for a hike up to the Rob Roy Glacier.  This hike went from cow pastures, to lush forest, to mountain valley.  With such variety, and beauty, this may be my favorite hike of all time.  

Post Rob Roy hike, we grabbed some Mountain Bikes from Green Toad, and followed a trail around the lake to one of the feeder rivers.  The most important thing to be aware of when biking in New Zealand: the back break is on the left.  Ryan learned this the hard way by nearly flipping his bike.  

While in Wanaka, we took the opportunity to do some freedom camping.  After driving just outside the town limits, you are able to park and camp wherever you please, as long as you are rolling in a self-contained vehicle.  Freedom camping, as you would imagine, is free.  The only downside, no shower.  This is where holiday parks come into play.  

After two days in Wanaka, it was regrettably time to head out.  Can we move to Wanaka?  Stay tuned for the second half of our New Zealand honeymoon.

 

Know before you go:

Milford Track:

• Book well in advance, at least six months if going at peak season.
• Bring insect repellent.  The sandflies are brutal.  They're fine if you are moving, but the second you stop to admire a view, it's on.  They will leave you itching for days.  
• Rain gear and layers are a must.  
• If you really want to do it right, Stay in Milford for the night to enjoy the beauty of the Sound.
• Huts have beds, flush toilets, and burners for cooking.  
• Water is drinkable straight from the stream.  No need to bring water treatments.

Dunedin:

• Avoid the Dunedin Holiday Park and head to the Leith Valley Holiday Park.
• Drive out to the Otaga Peninsula to enjoy glorious bay and ocean views, and maybe see an albatross or penguin.

Wanaka:

• Rent bikes from Green Toad, they are flexible and affordable. 
• Take the opportunity to do some freedom camping.  
• Take a day trip to Mt. Aspiring National Park to see the Rob Roy Glacier.
• Be cautious, you may never want to leave.  This is Eden.

Holidays in New Zealand:

• Most bars, restaurants, and stores are closed on major holidays.  This included: Christmas, Boxing Day, New Year's Eve, New Year's Day, and January 2nd.  
• If establishments are open on national holidays, they will charge an additional 15%.

goals

Like most people, I think of the new year as a time to reevaluate my life.  Rather than resolutions, which are bound to be broken, I like to have goals.  Goals are just more attainable, not to mention more motivating.  

Let's see how I fared in 2013:

1.  Cook more and eat locally

Although I did quite a bit of cooking in 2013, I would view this goal as a fail.  Cooking twice a week, maybe, doesn't seem like success to me.  Also, I only went to the Farmer's Market once.  I suck.

2.  Read 20 books

Ack, I only read 19.  Apparently my summer slacking put me behind.  Check out all the books I read here and here.

3.  Travel somewhere new

Huzzah, success!  If I were going to succeed at a goal, this is definitely the best one to choose.  Not only did I travel to one new place, I actually travelled to two new places.  Hurrah for me.  This year, Ryan and I did a summer vacation in Baja, and then honeymooned in New Zealand.  

Kayaking in Baja

Hiking the Milford Track in New Zealand

4.  Blog once per week
Although I didn't quite accomplish this, ringing in at 46 blog posts in 2013 puts me pretty darn close.

5.  Clean out the apartment by making two Goodwill runs and make a few extra bucks at a stoop sale
Back to feeling like a winner.  Ryan and I did in fact de-clutter our apartment by donating items to our local charity, and selling a few at the world's lamest stoop sale.  Lame as it was, we still made $45, which we added to the date-night spare change jar.  Wahoo.

6.  Give Blood
I did this!  The Tiburon Fire Station has a biannual blood drive.  This year I made a pit stop on the way to the ferry to give blood.  Despite the horrifically large needle, it felt good to give blood.

So, basically I scored a 50% on goal accomplishing.

Now it's time to look forward to 2014.  I have a few new goals, but I would also like to repeat the goals where I didn't quite make it.


2014 Goals:  
1.  Cook more and eat locally, sourcing food from local farmer's markets.
2.  Read 20 books
3.  Run a 1/2 marathon
4.  Blog at least 5 times per month
5.  Juice

8 books

My goal for 2013 was 20 books.  Sigh, I only read 19.  As I worked through the remaining eight, I realized the theme of children in turmoil continued, but I added to that genocide.  It was an uplifting year in books for me.  Here are the last eight books I read in 2013.

1.  The Sandcastle Girls, by: Chris Bohjalian

All about the Armenian genocide, this book travels between present day and the past as an ancestral mystery is unraveled.  It's a page turner, but it's also about the annihilation of a group of people, so parts can be challenging to read.    That said, it's about a chapter in our world's history that is little discussed.  I love a good historical fiction.  

2.  The Lost Wife, By: Alyson Richman

The Lost Wife is another book that travels between present day and the past.  Set in both New York and WWII Prague, the characters tell their story of losing love and family during the Nazi invasion.  I was hooked from the very fist page, where it is revealed that the elderly strangers, who meet by chance at a wedding, were once married over 40 years ago.  It is the story of the evolution of their relationship. How they met, loved, lost, and found each other again.

3.  The Book Thief, By: Markus Zusak

Guess what!!??  Another book about WWII.  Told from the point of view of Death, The Book Thief focuses on the happenings in a small rural town in Germany.  It's a WWII novel that talks more about what happened to German civilians than Jews.  Liesel, an orphan taken in by a bitter woman and her jovial husband, steals books to cope with the blows she's been dealt in life.  It was also just recently made into a movie.  Read it before you see it.  

4.  Wonder, By: R.J. Palacio

After a few books about major wars, I decided to head back to books about children being dealt the short end of the stick.  August is born with an intense facial deformation.  After years of homeschooling, it is time for him to join the mainstream.  We travel through August's first year of school, as told from the point of view of several of the characters.  He is ostracized, bullied, harassed, and ultimately accepted.  Although it is technically a young adult novel, there are messages for everyone.  

5.  Brain on Fire: My Month of Madness, By: Susannah Cahalan

Susannah begins to experience light sensitivity, obsessive behavior, intense mood swings, and delusions.  In her memoir, she writes about her experience with an unusual brain virus and her near death experience.  Susannah describes her experience through doctors reports, family diaries, hospital surveillance videos, and the minuscule memories she has of the ordeal.  Without a few dedicated doctors, Susannah's story may have ended very differently. After reading this book, I was basically convinced that everything I did was pointing to brain disease.  "Yikes, that light is really bright.  Brain virus?"  It's a quick and engaging read.

6.  I'm Down, By: Mishna Wolff

Mishna grows up in the Rainer Valley neighborhood of Seattle.  She spends her childhood trying to prove to her father that, despite the whiteness of her skin, she is in fact "down."  Her father, also white, is pretty much convinced that he is black.  Mishna finds that she doesn't quite fit into her black community, but when she starts attending a predominantly white private school, she finds that she doesn't really fit in there either.  Equal parts hilarious and devastating, Mishna remembers her childhood through vignettes.  

7.  Gulp: Adventures of the Alimentary Canal, By: Mary Roach

Ever wonder if you would be able to survive being swallowed by a whale?  Mary Roach examines the ins and outs of the digestive system.  She uses ancient and recent scientific experiments to explain the strangeness of the human, and animal, body.  If bodily functions don't make you feel squeamish, than go ahead and read.  

8.  Prince of Tides, By: Pat Conroy

And here is the reason why I only got though 19 books.  This last one is looooong.  Although engaging, this read is dense and slow going.  Tom, travels to New York City to speak with his twin sister's psychologist in order to help save her from depression and suicidal attempts.  Tom recounts their troubled childhood.  Born to violent parents in South Carolina, the siblings rely on each other to make it through.  Every detail is important, the tiniest one coming back to mean something large and life changing.   

Want more recommendations?  Here are the first 11 books I read.

san francisco top 50

In honor of my 50th post, I've put together a list of my San Francisco top 50.  And here it is, in no particular order:

Restaurants:

1.  Sit outside, sip wine, people watch, and eat the Panna pizza at Pizza Delfina.  (Mission)

2.  Grab some friends and some beer and head over to SOMA StreatFood.  (SOMA)

3.  Ike's Place has the best sandwiches.  Order ahead.  My favorite is the Captain Kirk.  Ryan likes the Love Triangle.  (Mission)

4.  Papalote might have the best Salsa on planet Earth, but not the best burrito.  That spot is reserved for the next item on the list.  (Mission)

5.  El Metate has the best, and cheapest burritos in town.  With outdoor seating, salsa bar, and delicious tortillas, they can't be beat.  (Mission Flats)

6.  There's something amazing about the thickness of the crust, and the grittiness of the restaurant at Golden Boy Pizza.  (North Beach)

7.  It always feels like autumn, in a good way, at Duboce Park Cafe.  Another of the few places to sit outside in the city.  This franchise has other locations at Precita Park and Dolores Park, but Duboce is my favskies.  Also, they offer a discount to members of the Bicycle Coalition.  (Duboce Triangle)

8  B-Star is far superior to it's big sister restaurant Burma Superstar.  Not only does it have a better/hipper atmosphere and an outdoor patio, it's also easier to get a table.  The wild rice salad is amazing, as is the samusa soup.  (Richmond)

9.  Herbivore, although most of the menu is lacking, has the best salad, and you can pair it with a carrot, apple, ginger juice.  It's not my favorite, but Ryan loves the Pad Thai.  (NOPA and Mission)

10.  Mission Beach Cafe has great brunch, if you don't mind a 45 minute wait and a $60 tab.  (Mission)


Bars:

11.  Mission Cheese has good wine, yummy salumi, and CHEESE!    It's great for a ladies afternoon.  And the best part, you can sit outside.  (Mission)

12.  Happy Hour at Nook.  Grab a $3.50 glass of wine, sit outside, and watch the cable cars go past.  (Nob Hill)

13.  Manhattans at Two Sisters.  Nuff said.  (Hayes Valley)

14.  Make a reservation to get the password to the Bourbon and Branch speakeasy.  Or, just say "books," at the door and grab a drink in the library, no reservation necessary.  (Tenderloin)

15.  The basil gimlet at Rye makes me swoon.  (Tenderloin)

16.  The Latin American Club has margaritas that will level you.  Just one will do the trick.  Plus they have a festive, but divey, atmosphere.  (Mission)

17.  Churchill's makes a mean Moscow Mule, and they serve them in mason jars, so it's trendy and cute.  (Castro/Duboce Triangle)

18.  Mission Bowling Club has surprisingly good food and some good, old fashioned bowling (for an inflated city price.)  (Mission)

Treats:

19.  Smitten Ice Cream uses science to make their ice cream super creamy.  (Hayes Valley)

20.  Fraiche's frozen yogurt offers a healthier alternative to ice cream.  Plus, you can choose from a variety of yummy toppings.  (Fillmore)

21.  Hot Cookie has... hot cookies.  And if you are feeling adventurous, you can model in a pair of hot cookie underpants, and have your picture hung on the wall for posterity.  Probably the best chocolate chip cookie I've ever eaten.  (Castro)

22.  The Ice Cream Bar.  The dairy free coconut ice cream will blow your mind.  They also make soda drinks and serve food.  (Cole Valley)

23.  The ham and cheese croissant at Tartine is crispy, savory, perfection.  It's worth the wait in the line that sometimes curls around the corner.  (Mission)

Coffee:

24.  Four Barrel Coffee offers good coffee and a parklet.  (Mission)

I must digress for a moment:  Where are all the cozy coffee shops in San Francisco?  Where can I sit down with a good book and a delicious, well crafted caffeinated beverage?  I've been here for 8 years, and I still don't have the answer.  

Stores:

25.  Aldea is my favorite store for the home.  Great gifts.  (Mission)

26.  Cliff's Variety has never failed me.  If I need a hammer, they can do that.  A feather boa?  No problem. A new toilet seat?  Please, that's not even a challenge.  Le Creuset?  Yup, they've got that too.  Handerpants?  Done.  (Castro)

27.  Browser Books on Fillmore has a great collection of new and used titles.  Books are crammed in here giving the store a cramped, but cozy feeling.  This is what book stores should look like.  (Fillmore)

Activities:

28.  Bike to Ocean Beach.  It's the best way to get there.  

29.  Castro Theatre Sing-a-Longs, the best so far has been The Little Mermaid.  Although, Beauty and the Beast was a close second.  I will add that any movie experience here is pretty awesome.  They start each show with an organ player who descends into the stage at the end of his set.  It's so old-timey.  (Castro)

30.  One of the best lazy weekend activities is walking by Wags on Polk and watching the herd of dogs mingle as they wait for a bath.  Make sure to bring a coffee, you could be there for a while.  (Polk Gulch)

Indoor Places:

31.  Kabuki Bath House is so, so relaxing.  Tuesday is the only coed (bathing suit mandatory) day, otherwise the days are split up by gender, and clothing is definitely optional.  Steam room, sauna, cold bath, hot bath.  Ultimate relaxation.  (Japan Town)

32.  Musee Mechanique has a collection of vintage arcade games.  Bring quarters.  (Fisherman's Wharf)

33.  The Ferry Building in the morning is amazing.  It's empty and smells of coziness.  (Embarcadero)

34.  The Tactile Dome at the Exploratorium is not for the faint of heart.  Get squeamish in tight and dark places? This is not for you.  Definitely worth the extra entrance fee.  (Embarcadero)

Outdoor Places:

35.  For sweeping views of San Francisco, without the crowds of Twin Peaks, Kite Hill is the place.  It's so beautiful we even had our engagement photos taken here.  (Castro)

36.  Mount Sutro is some of the best hiking in the city.  When I'm here, it's hard to imagine that I am actually in the dead center of San Francisco.  Eucalyptus trees, muddy trails, misty fog.  It's another world here.  The entrance is on Stanyan at 17th.  (Inner Sunset)

37.  Hopper's Hands is located at the end of the trail that runs along Crissy Field to the base of the Golden Gate Bridge.  There's something so satisfying about giving Hopper ten.  Pet's don't have to feel left out, there are paw-tens for the furry hiker.  (Presidio)

38.  Speaking of the trail along Crissy Field, the Warming Hut is such a cozy place to take a break, learn about the area, and grab a coffee.  Let's face it, it's usually pretty damn cold and windy out there.  The Warming Hut is necessary.  (Presidio)

39.  Baker Beach, this clothing optional beach is just the ticket on a hot day.  Parking is impossible, so better just bike or transit.  Glorious view of the bridge while sunbathing.  (Presidio)

40.  Dolores Park is the Mission's answer to the beach.  On a sunny day this park resembles a Where's Waldo of San Francisco hipsters.  The best place to have a cheap beer and people watch with friends.  (Mission)

41.  The Bernal Slides are such a hidden gem.  They run down the hill in this great mini-park.  They are steep, and metal, and crazy fast.  I went shooting out the end so fast I landed on my hands and knees.  F-U-N.  (Bernal Heights)

42.  Frisbee Golf in Golden Gate Park, is not necessarily for me, but I do enjoy walking with Ryan as he plays.  It's in the park, in a forest, and it's free.  It's pretty nice.  (Golden Gate Park)

Hikes and Camping:

43.  Hawk Camp is easily accessible from the city and has views of the city. (Headlands)

44.  Bicentennial Camp is another easily accessible campground.  No car necessary to get here.  Make sure to make a reservation, it definitely books up.  (Headlands)

45.  The Tourist Club is a fun way to spend the day with friends.  This Bavarian looking bar is set in the redwoods for some seriously scenic day drinking.  Hiking in is the best option, but driving is also possible.  (Headlands)

46.  Sweeney Ridge offers views of the Bay and the ocean.  Make sure to go on a fog free day to make the most of the hike and scenery.  (San Bruno)

Events:

47.  The Easter Sunday Big Wheel Races involve grown-ups cramming their costumed, grown-up sized bodies, onto child-sized big wheels, then barreling down the actual curviest street in San Francisco and breakneck speeds.  It's amazing.  Just go.  (Potrero)

48.  During the first weekend in October, Hardly Strictly Blue Grass festival has free blue grass in Golden Gate Park.  Best.Weekend.Ever.  Get there early to grab some real estate.  Then stop drinking so you don't have to fight hordes of people to get to the port-o-potty.  (Golden Gate Park)

49.  Macy's Christmas Window Display.  There are cats and puppies.  Do I need to say more?  (Union Square)

50.  Pop-Up Magazine is an ephemeral, live magazine.  You sit, you listen to hilarious and thought provoking presenters, you drink a signature cocktail, you leave.  No photographs, no recordings, just your own memories.  Tickets sell out within seconds.  (Davies Symphony Hall, Hayes Valley)

Check out 50 more things to do in San Francisco on my new blog, One Plus Me.