new zealand by camper van: part one

Over my winter holiday vacation, Ryan and I travelled to New Zealand for our honeymoon.  Our trip began a bit rocky.  After a 7 hour delay, missing our connecting flight, paying $850 for a new connecting flight, missing that connecting flight, then paying $400 for my already overpriced Mollie Stone's apple at customs, we arrived.  Phew.  

Upon the recommendation of several friends, we rented a camper van to tour the South Island.  After shopping around, we landed on Cruzy Campers.  They had the best reviews, and were the most affordable.  This was definitely the right choice.  Having the camper van allowed us the freedom to see the country on our time frame, not to mention it was transportation and lodging all rolled into one.  

Our first stop was Te Anau, where we dropped off the camper van and headed out on the Milford Track for a four day backpacking trip.  New Zealand is the master of overnight hiking trips.  Each track offers huts along the way, which allow you to backpack without tents.  Plus, it was a fun way to meet people from all over the world.  Booking ahead, especially for more popular tracks, like the Milford, is necessary.  When we booked in July, there were only two remaining spaces for the entire time we were in New Zealand.  

The track begins with a boat ride on Lake Te Anau

Is it possible to visit New Zealand without pretending to be Gandalf? 

The sun sets at 10pm in NZ.  The days last forever.  Wheee!

The track ends at the Milford Sound

If we were to do the trip again, we would have hung out in Milford for a bit; kayaking on the sound and treating ourselves to a night in the Milford Lodge.  Apparently trying to book a month in advance is too little too late for the Milford Lodge during holiday season.  Instead, we took a bus back to our camper van, and headed to Dunedin.

Dunedin, although cute, was a total bust.  We arrived on Christmas evening and had the 26th to bum around town.  So, in New Zealand they celebrate Boxing Day.  Everything is closed.  And by everything, I mean EVERYTHING.  Also, it was pouring rain the entire time we were there.  

If you do find yourself in Dunedin, the downtown area has a cute train station.  There is also a botanical garden, which is free to the public.  The grounds are extensive and the smells are amazing.  Stay at the Leith Valley Holiday Park.  It's clean, friendly, and has a crazy display of glowworms just a five minute walk away.  Unfortunately, I can't speak to the bars or restaurants, because as I mentioned everything was closed.

Rain in the Botanical Garden

Dunedin Train Station

After a wasted day in Dunedin, Ryan and I headed on to Wanaka.  Fellow travelers claim Wanaka is a smaller, tamer, and better Queenstown.  It's right on a lake and surrounded by mountains.  Skiing in the winter, and endless outdoorsy activities in the summer.  We hopped out of the van, and immediately started kayaking.  

Kayaking on Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka sunset

Wine, dinner, and sunset viewing, all from the camper van

Our second day in Wanaka found us driving up to Mt. Aspiring National Park for a hike up to the Rob Roy Glacier.  This hike went from cow pastures, to lush forest, to mountain valley.  With such variety, and beauty, this may be my favorite hike of all time.  

Post Rob Roy hike, we grabbed some Mountain Bikes from Green Toad, and followed a trail around the lake to one of the feeder rivers.  The most important thing to be aware of when biking in New Zealand: the back break is on the left.  Ryan learned this the hard way by nearly flipping his bike.  

While in Wanaka, we took the opportunity to do some freedom camping.  After driving just outside the town limits, you are able to park and camp wherever you please, as long as you are rolling in a self-contained vehicle.  Freedom camping, as you would imagine, is free.  The only downside, no shower.  This is where holiday parks come into play.  

After two days in Wanaka, it was regrettably time to head out.  Can we move to Wanaka?  Stay tuned for the second half of our New Zealand honeymoon.

 

Know before you go:

Milford Track:

• Book well in advance, at least six months if going at peak season.
• Bring insect repellent.  The sandflies are brutal.  They're fine if you are moving, but the second you stop to admire a view, it's on.  They will leave you itching for days.  
• Rain gear and layers are a must.  
• If you really want to do it right, Stay in Milford for the night to enjoy the beauty of the Sound.
• Huts have beds, flush toilets, and burners for cooking.  
• Water is drinkable straight from the stream.  No need to bring water treatments.

Dunedin:

• Avoid the Dunedin Holiday Park and head to the Leith Valley Holiday Park.
• Drive out to the Otaga Peninsula to enjoy glorious bay and ocean views, and maybe see an albatross or penguin.

Wanaka:

• Rent bikes from Green Toad, they are flexible and affordable. 
• Take the opportunity to do some freedom camping.  
• Take a day trip to Mt. Aspiring National Park to see the Rob Roy Glacier.
• Be cautious, you may never want to leave.  This is Eden.

Holidays in New Zealand:

• Most bars, restaurants, and stores are closed on major holidays.  This included: Christmas, Boxing Day, New Year's Eve, New Year's Day, and January 2nd.  
• If establishments are open on national holidays, they will charge an additional 15%.