rossland, bc

This year for Christmas the Brancifortes and the Kernermans joined forces and headed to British Columbia. We set off from Spokane, and landed in Rossland, BC just a mere 20 minutes from the boarder. We posted up at the Red Mountain Ski Resort. Although, there wasn't enough snow to open the downhill slopes, there was plenty of snow for other forms of winter entertainment.  

On our first day, we strapped on some snowshoes and drove up the road to the Nancy Greene Summit area. We hired a guided, which ended up being a great idea. There are cozy huts along the trail, and they are hard to find unless you know what you're doing. We hiked to Red Dog Hut. It was about 2 miles in and about the coziest place on Earth. A fire was ablaze, lunch was cooking, and tea was served. Again, this was the perk of having a guided hike. All of the cabins are open to the public, no reservations required. Just pop in when it suits your fancy. Huts offer pit toilets, camping is not available. 

Red Dog Hut

Next, we traded in our snowshoes for some cross country skis. We made reservations with LePetit Fromage for a night ski session to a hut for a fondu dinner at Black Jack Ski Club. Before we hit the track at night, we spent the day scoping out the terrain.

Since much of the day looked like the above, becoming familiar with the trail before nightfall ended up being a good choice. After a day of skiing, we took a two hour rest, then headed back out at 5:30pm to get our fondu on. Bridget, our gracious host, cozified the hut before our arrival. She also provided a three-course fondu dinner, which was delicious. It's $75 a person, and you provide your own booze, so it's pricey, but definitely worth the cost. The best part was the epic night sky. 

On the third day, I rested. 

desert livin'

My husband's family has a great little yurt in Fields, Oregon. I use the term "yurt" loosely, as the only thing it has in common with an actual yurt is the shape. Regardless, it's the perfect respite from our busy and hectic, city lives. Completely off the grid, we are able to disconnect for a few days. This year, we invited another couple to join us as we headed to the high desert of South Eastern Oregon. 

Fields, and the surrounding area, offers hiking, remote natural hot springs, and, for those without a yurt, an abundance of free camping. Because of the lack of light pollution, there is an epic night sky perfect for star gazing. Fields Station, the only commercial structure in the town of 86 people, sells some of the best milkshakes money can buy. 

Desert hiking off of Arizona Creek Road

Sunset at Willow Creek Hot Springs

View of the Alvord Desert from Pike Creek Trail

Getting in a round of Kubb

new zealand by camper van: part two

Our New Zealand adventure continued as we travelled up the west coast.  The drive from Wanaka to Nelson, where we were spending New Year's Eve, is long and twisty.  The roads wind over mountain passes and through sheep pastures.  It's gorgeous, but so, so long.  To split up the drive, we made a few pit stops a long the way.  

First up, the Fox Glacier.  Touring companies will gladly take your money to give you an up close experience, but you can also make the short 30 minute hike to a pretty good view point.  It's steep, but worth the walk.  The glacier is large, blue, and very close to the trail.  

Fox Glacier

Just 40 minutes up the road lies the Franz Glacier.  Another 30 minute hike will get you to a meh view.  If you have to choose, go with Fox.  However, the ridiculous ranger cut out was good for a laugh.

Our new best friend

After a day and a half of driving, we finally made it to Abel Tasman sound.  The plan was to kayak, but pouring rain forced us to make a few change ups.  We rescheduled the kayak trip, and hit the trails for some rainy hiking.  The lush forest, and the steamy humidity made it feel like we were hiking in the depths of the Amazon.  

Post hike, Ryan and I made the hour long drive to Nelson, where we were staying for the next two nights...in a hotel!  I was beyond excited to sleep in a proper bed and take a proper shower.  Hotels in New Zealand are ludicrously expensive, but after a bit of research, I was able to find The Sails.  Affordable, clean, cute, cozy, and centrally located.  

Nelson, we discovered, is known for the microbrew scene.  We were given a few recommendations from the owner of the Sails, then hit the scene.  Our first stop was the Free House.  It's an old church that is living a new life as a bar.  With a dozen local beers on tap, tons of out door seating, and a small snack menu for munching, we were quite pleased with our first selection.  The best part, immediately adjacent is a yurt with live music.  As long as you buy a drink at the bar, chilling in the yurt and listening to the band are free.  We caught My Chameleon.  

My Chameleon

Next stop, dinner at Hopgood's.  Holy cow, my palate died and went to heaven.  Delicious New Zealand beers and wines, paired with fresh local ingredients and a friendly atmosphere.  It's a Nelson must do.  

Day two, New Year's Eve, in the northern region of the southern island, found us kayaking in the Abel Tasman sound.  The water is an unbelievable turquoise, and the waves are minimal.  While hugging the coast in the kayak, we were able to explore crazy rock formations, caves, and hard to reach beaches.  There are several kayak rental companies in the area.  Although Abel Tasman Kayaks, may seem like the way to go, given their name, they are actually the most expensive option.  We used Kahu Kayaks.  They had several different rental options, were friendly, and accommodating.  They were also the most affordable.  

We opted for some freedom kayaking (solo, no guide).  We also chose to kayak roundtrip, rather than kayak out and hike back, which most people did.  When booking, it's important to note that prices are per person.  Activities go from sounding relatively reasonably priced, to expensive.  Day rental was $60 per person, which means they are making money hand over fist.  All in all, it was a pretty amazing way to wrap up 2013.

The most exciting part about being in New Zealand for holiday was being able to ring in 2014 before the rest of the world.  We greeted the new year 21 hours before our friends and family on the US west coast.  Ryan and I continued our tour of the Nelson beer scene on NYE, visiting two more bars: The Vic and The Sprig & Fern.  Both were fun and worth a visit.  The Vic boasted fairly decent bar food paired with craft beers, and the Sprig & Fern offered free live music.  

My favorite part was the disorganization.  There's no ball to drop, that doesn't happen for another 18 hours.  The band held the power, and didn't start the countdown until 12:02, at which point there was a lack luster celebration and then Auld Lang Syne about 10 minutes too late.  It was amazing.  

NYE at the Sprig&Fern

Thunderstorms on New Year's day caused us to cancel our snorkeling with seals trip in Kaikoura.  This would be our biggest regret.  As it turned out, Kaikoura was the only place in New Zealand that was experiencing a gloriously sunny day.  We still made the trip, but then found we were shuffling about, feeling sad about no snorkel boat, and bumming about wasting our last day of honeymoon.  We tried to salvage the pieces by hiking around the peninsula.  It is beautiful, but it was no seal snorkel adventure.  This just means we have a reason to return.

The mountains shield Kaikoura from ever present rain showers

We were unintentionally dressing the same by the end of the trip.  Married!

Not wanting the fun to end, we squeezed in one last bike adventure in Christchurch just hours before our flight on the second.  We used City Cycle Hire, they brought the bikes to us while we had breakfast at the Pedal Pusher Cafe.  We planned on going to The Addington Coffee Co-Op, but, like most places, it was closed from December 24th-January 5th for holiday.

I knew that the city had been devastated after the 2011 earthquake, the third most expensive natural disaster in history, but your mind really can't comprehend such devastation until witnessing first hand.  The downtown area is a ghost town.  All the buildings are boarded up and in some phase of demolition or restoration.  The community has begun adding color to the area through whimsical parklets, murals, and fencing.  

The living wall and colorful fence surrounding the ruins of the Christchurch Cathedral

Sound garden created from post earthquake debris 

The Cardboard Cathedral, partially constructed from cardboard,
is the temporary cathedral substitute 

After our brief bike tour, it was time to say goodbye to New Zealand.  

The bottom line:  I'm moving to the South Island.  

Know before you go:

The West Coast:

• If you want to take a dip in the Tasman Sea, make sure to hit up an actual beach.  The waves break close to shore and isn't hospitable at just any pull off.  Also, the sandflies are heinous, so make it a quick dip.
• Skip the expensive glacial tours and do a self-guided 30 minute hike.  Fox is more impressive than Franz.

Abel Tasman National Park:

• Use Kahu Kayaks, the more affordable competitor to Abel Tasman Kayaks.
• Abel Tasman is home to the Coastal hut-to-hut track.  Although we did not partake, it looked amazing.  Book ahead.  

Nelson:

• Visit Nelson for their fresh seafood and microbrew scene.  

Kaikoura:

• Because of the mountain rain shadow, Kaikoura is the sunniest spot on the South Island.  
• Visit the i-Site to learn about the many outdoor activities available.  This is the best place to snorkel and whale watch.

Christchurch:

• The tourism scene was pretty much obliterated after the earthquake.  With fewer hotels, restaurants, and attractions, there just isn't as much here for a traveler.  That said, it is still worth a visit.

New Zealand:

• Every town, big or small, has an i-Site.  They often offer deals on activities, and will assist with all bookings.  It's a good place to start.  
• Many businesses close down between Christmas and New Year's.  Be warned.
• Kiwis call hiking trails, tracks.

Want to see the rest of our trip?  Check out part one.

new zealand by camper van: part one

Over my winter holiday vacation, Ryan and I travelled to New Zealand for our honeymoon.  Our trip began a bit rocky.  After a 7 hour delay, missing our connecting flight, paying $850 for a new connecting flight, missing that connecting flight, then paying $400 for my already overpriced Mollie Stone's apple at customs, we arrived.  Phew.  

Upon the recommendation of several friends, we rented a camper van to tour the South Island.  After shopping around, we landed on Cruzy Campers.  They had the best reviews, and were the most affordable.  This was definitely the right choice.  Having the camper van allowed us the freedom to see the country on our time frame, not to mention it was transportation and lodging all rolled into one.  

Our first stop was Te Anau, where we dropped off the camper van and headed out on the Milford Track for a four day backpacking trip.  New Zealand is the master of overnight hiking trips.  Each track offers huts along the way, which allow you to backpack without tents.  Plus, it was a fun way to meet people from all over the world.  Booking ahead, especially for more popular tracks, like the Milford, is necessary.  When we booked in July, there were only two remaining spaces for the entire time we were in New Zealand.  

The track begins with a boat ride on Lake Te Anau

Is it possible to visit New Zealand without pretending to be Gandalf? 

The sun sets at 10pm in NZ.  The days last forever.  Wheee!

The track ends at the Milford Sound

If we were to do the trip again, we would have hung out in Milford for a bit; kayaking on the sound and treating ourselves to a night in the Milford Lodge.  Apparently trying to book a month in advance is too little too late for the Milford Lodge during holiday season.  Instead, we took a bus back to our camper van, and headed to Dunedin.

Dunedin, although cute, was a total bust.  We arrived on Christmas evening and had the 26th to bum around town.  So, in New Zealand they celebrate Boxing Day.  Everything is closed.  And by everything, I mean EVERYTHING.  Also, it was pouring rain the entire time we were there.  

If you do find yourself in Dunedin, the downtown area has a cute train station.  There is also a botanical garden, which is free to the public.  The grounds are extensive and the smells are amazing.  Stay at the Leith Valley Holiday Park.  It's clean, friendly, and has a crazy display of glowworms just a five minute walk away.  Unfortunately, I can't speak to the bars or restaurants, because as I mentioned everything was closed.

Rain in the Botanical Garden

Dunedin Train Station

After a wasted day in Dunedin, Ryan and I headed on to Wanaka.  Fellow travelers claim Wanaka is a smaller, tamer, and better Queenstown.  It's right on a lake and surrounded by mountains.  Skiing in the winter, and endless outdoorsy activities in the summer.  We hopped out of the van, and immediately started kayaking.  

Kayaking on Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka sunset

Wine, dinner, and sunset viewing, all from the camper van

Our second day in Wanaka found us driving up to Mt. Aspiring National Park for a hike up to the Rob Roy Glacier.  This hike went from cow pastures, to lush forest, to mountain valley.  With such variety, and beauty, this may be my favorite hike of all time.  

Post Rob Roy hike, we grabbed some Mountain Bikes from Green Toad, and followed a trail around the lake to one of the feeder rivers.  The most important thing to be aware of when biking in New Zealand: the back break is on the left.  Ryan learned this the hard way by nearly flipping his bike.  

While in Wanaka, we took the opportunity to do some freedom camping.  After driving just outside the town limits, you are able to park and camp wherever you please, as long as you are rolling in a self-contained vehicle.  Freedom camping, as you would imagine, is free.  The only downside, no shower.  This is where holiday parks come into play.  

After two days in Wanaka, it was regrettably time to head out.  Can we move to Wanaka?  Stay tuned for the second half of our New Zealand honeymoon.

 

Know before you go:

Milford Track:

• Book well in advance, at least six months if going at peak season.
• Bring insect repellent.  The sandflies are brutal.  They're fine if you are moving, but the second you stop to admire a view, it's on.  They will leave you itching for days.  
• Rain gear and layers are a must.  
• If you really want to do it right, Stay in Milford for the night to enjoy the beauty of the Sound.
• Huts have beds, flush toilets, and burners for cooking.  
• Water is drinkable straight from the stream.  No need to bring water treatments.

Dunedin:

• Avoid the Dunedin Holiday Park and head to the Leith Valley Holiday Park.
• Drive out to the Otaga Peninsula to enjoy glorious bay and ocean views, and maybe see an albatross or penguin.

Wanaka:

• Rent bikes from Green Toad, they are flexible and affordable. 
• Take the opportunity to do some freedom camping.  
• Take a day trip to Mt. Aspiring National Park to see the Rob Roy Glacier.
• Be cautious, you may never want to leave.  This is Eden.

Holidays in New Zealand:

• Most bars, restaurants, and stores are closed on major holidays.  This included: Christmas, Boxing Day, New Year's Eve, New Year's Day, and January 2nd.  
• If establishments are open on national holidays, they will charge an additional 15%.